PP World Time Moon Refs. 5575 and 7175 – hands-on impressions and live pictures ...

Oct 26, 2014,05:51 AM
 

… plus the official press release. Both watches are part of the commemorative collection for the 175th Anniversary of Patek Philippe.




World time watches from PP in general are highly desired not only by connoisseurs of PP. A modern poetic moon phase added to the display that already shows 24 time zones simultaneously sounds (almost) too addictive to resist. Not enough, the case Calatrava-style case shows sexy curves like we know it from watches in the 40s/50s and we can guess it is not simple to finish – not even today. The base caliber 240 (a legend itself) is shown in its latest development: caliber 240 HU LU. The benefit is a new type of display, featuring a single large moon turning clockwise at the center of the dial. A complex, innovative metallization technique has produced a moon phase whose face stands out against its starry background with almost photographic realism. The accuracy is more than 122 years, before it differs by one day from the real lunar cycle.





So far we are still talking about both references for ladies and man.





During the festivities I saw them like this …













… and like this.









 

The World Time Moon commemorative timepiece is produced in two limited editions of 1.300 (WG) watches for men and 450 (RG) watches for ladies. In both cases the time zone usually indicated by Paris on the city disc has been replaced by that of Geneva, as a tribute to the PP heritage.

I had the pleasure to play with the uncased version for man and all I can say is that it was pleasing – the feel when changing the time zone. A big plus, in my book.

As you can probably imagine the watches got my attention. I had to see them once more, especially because the readability of both seemed to be a weakness – at least inside the show case. Outside plastic I just managed to see the 5575G and I tried to cover the different shades of the dial and the readability for you. Have a look and judge by your own:





















When looking at picture two I had to think about the backs of Ref. 5002 and 6002 or the front of 6102.







(Ref. 6002, just for comparison)


It is all about the light (only) and less sophisticated, but still I like that thought. Let´s just call it an inspired version which shows a modern interpretation. But there is something I would like to mention and maybe you have seen it as well. With a dark background (blue or black), white hands are a nice feature to improve the readability. A missed chance here, from my point of view. Even when the shapes of the hands are very appealing, I would miss something.


Above I mentioned “sexy curves” and here I tried to show it:









Of course it is not crying “sexy” – it is a PP. Still I think it is added value and a sought after detail on top.

Let´s have a quick look at the special folding clasp.





Some may love it, but the first thing I would go for (if owning the watch) is a simple one. It is well executed and just a matter of taste at the end.

 

On the wrist :

It is very difficult to shoot and I am not happy with what I have, but here we go.









A fellow Purist (ch9698) was more lucky than me.





How does it feel on the wrist? Very pleasing if not to say addictive - to make it short!

 

The Ref. 7175R I only saw inside a showcase or in plastic and have no extra (live) pictures to share - unfortunately. Nonetheless it is my favorite out of those two world timer´s here. It is very appealing in the details and especially I like the colors shown – shades of bronze/brown. Just so charming and very well balanced.






Some context to see where (probably) some of the inspiration came from. Own history and a comprehensive vintage collection to call your own is a great source and hard to beat – if used appropriate and with added spice on new models. A few selected examples from the PP Museum, for your pleasure:





















Aesthetically the major difference is the modern and almost photographic moon. I have to get used to it – even when I think it is nice – to see it in a PP. Maybe it is just paradigm and only me. For others it might be just perfect. One guess by me is that they wanted to add something new they never did before, but also wanted to make it available for a wider customer group. Any kind of more classical/rare crafts would probably have been more expensive and/or available only in a lesser number of pieces.

 

Conclusion :

Both versions should be winners and if rumors are right, at least the version for man is already sold out. Me like them both for what they are, but without being crazy about them and with a soft spot for the ladies version.

 

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Press release, as added information :


Patek Philippe Geneva

October 2014

Patek Philippe World Time Moon Refs. 5575 and 7175

From the earth to the moon in 24 hours

A company anniversary should not merely be a retrospective, it should also look ahead. This objective was consummately fulfilled with the Patek Philippe World Time Moon, which is being presented in a limited edition to commemorate the manufacture's 175th anniversary. It melds the tradition of World Time watches, highly coveted among collectors, with an innovative moon-phase display that makes this poetic complication come alive in a totally new way.

Ordinarily, Patek Philippe World Time watches feature a guilloché center or, particularly prized at auctions, a polychrome cloisonné enamel motif. With the World Time Moon, this is different for the first time, because the entire center is now occupied by a large-format moon-phase display. Never before have the changing faces of the moon been reproduced by a Patek Philippe watch so realistically and with such prominence. Hence, this commemorative timepiece combines two complications that stand for tradition and innovation. The World Time Moon will be crafted in a limited edition of 1750 pieces, of which 450 as the diamond-adorned Ref. 7175 ladies' version and 1300 in the somewhat larger Ref. 5575 men's version.

The whole world at a glance

The Patek Philippe World Time watch was first launched in the 1930s and patented in 1959. With two rotatable scale disks at the periphery of the dial, it indicates the time in all of the world's 24 time zones at a glance. The organization of the world in 24 time zones, each spanning 15 degrees of geographical longitude, dates back to the International Meridian Conference in 1884 and since then has seen only minor changes. Thus, the outer scale lists 24 place names that each represent an entire time zone, while the inner scale displays the hours that correspond to the time of day in each zone. The minute indication is identical for all zones. The hands of Patek Philippe World Time watches display the local time in the time zone represented by the city which stands at 12 o'clock. The cities on the right are located farther east, those on the left farther west.
This principle also applies to the current models with optimized time-zone mechanism that was patented in 1999. It allows all adjustments to be performed with a single pusher at 10 o'clock in the case flank. The mechanism is separated from the movement when corrections are made, so the steady oscillation of the balance and the accuracy of the minute hand's position remain unaffected. Each time the pusher is pressed, three things happen simultaneously: the uniquely designed hour hand, which evokes the Southern Cross constellation, advances by one hour, while the city and 24-hour disks move counterclockwise by one time zone. If the hands previously indicated 10:15 as the local time for London, they now display 11:15 for Geneva.

The moon on the wrist


The first moon landing took place in 1969. In 2014, the moon landed in the middle of a Patek Philippe watch. Conventional moon-phase displays are based on a characteristically shaped dial aperture. It exposes part of a disk with two round stylized moons that rotates about its own axis once in the course of two lunar months. Accordingly, the changing face of the earth's satellite is comparatively small. To achieve a significantly larger and more attractive depiction, Patek Philippe developed a mechanism for the World Time Moon that showcases the moon-phase display in the center of the dial. It is composed of two extremely thin, superposed glass disks. The bottom one is decorated with the nocturnal sky using an innovative metallization process. It shows a richly detailed and very large rendering of the moon. Several craters, so-called lunar maria, are faithfully reproduced with fine gray-white gradations. This disk performs one complete revolution every 29.53 days. The upper half of the second stationary disk just above it is metallized with a precisely calculated, heart-shaped contour. This mask exposes only the visible portion of the moon on the rotating disk and covers the area that in reality is darkened by the earth's shadow.

The intrinsic and extrinsic beauty of watchmaking artistry


The new caliber 240 HU LU was developed explicitly to achieve a harmonious fusion of the world's 24 time zones with the lunar cycle. It is based on an ultra-thin self-winding movement powered by a 22K gold minirotor totally recessed in the plate. Composed of 270 individual, immaculately finished parts, it fulfills all of the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. This also applies to its high rate accuracy. Its maximum daily deviation amounts to between -3 and +2 seconds, perceptibly better than watches with official chronometer certificates.

From the outside, the World Time Moon is timelessly elegant. Its round case, inspired by the Calatrava style, is made of 18K white gold for men and 18K rose gold for women. Both models have a solid-gold case back with the engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175e Anniversaire 1839 – 2014”. On the dial side, Patek Philippe yet again succeeded in creating an eminently legible display of all 24 time zones with emphasis on local time, combined with an unusually large, richly detailed moon-phase display on dials with a diameter of about 35 mm. The local time scale, the 24-hour dial, and the moon phases are prominently distinguished by their colors. In contrast to the World Time watches in the current collection, the World Time Moon anniversary model features an innovative local time hour hand. It recalls the Southern Cross constellation referred to in many seafarer novels and rounds out the astronomical trio – earth, moon, and stars – in an imaginative way. Another special facet of this limited anniversary edition: as a tribute to Patek Philippe’s notable heritage, Central European Time is represented by the city of Geneva instead of Paris.

The men's model, with a diameter of 39.8 mm, is slightly larger than the 38-mm ladies' version. The latter features a bezel that sparkles with the fire of 70 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 0.6 ct). The hand-stitched alligator strap with large square scales is secured with a fold-over clasp in gold to match the case, with the engraving “PATEK PHILIPPE 1839 – 2014”. The strap is shiny black for the men's model and shiny beige for ladies.


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Side note : At the moment I run out of time and therefore I will add some more pictures later







This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2014-10-26 05:52:24


More posts: 175th collection5002513055755575G6002610271757175Rcalatravacomplicationsgrand complications

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Comments: view entire thread

 

It may sound as a nice addition to the 5130

 
 By: Mark in Paris : October 26th, 2014-06:01
There are some very appealing evoutions and, for me, the case is in clear 1st position while the MP arrives in 2nd. I talk about 'addition" because it is not better or able to replace the 5130 imo. It is different. I'll need time appreciating the size of ... 

Mixed feelings, here.

 
 By: amanico : October 26th, 2014-06:08
I am among those who think that Patek is the Master of World Time Watches. In that sense, the 5110 was perfect, in terms of size, coherence of the proportions, elegance, class. The 5130 suffered from the fact that Patek enhanced the size of the case with ...  

Not so bad...

 
 By: dirost : October 26th, 2014-08:52
Hi Nico, I've read all your argumentation but there is no perfect watch. 1- This central moon phase brings another king of beauty to the dial center and I think it quite well executed. I don't know if it will be difficult to find the settle the right moon... 

I have to see it in the flesh, before any final thought on this watch.

 
 By: amanico : October 26th, 2014-09:07
I am not sure I like the case or not.... I just don't know. The real experience we=ill tell me. As for the Chrono, it would have been possible to do it, ONLY if they were re thinking the design of their dial. As it is, it seems that it has the same size t... 

You're right concerning the moonphase

 
 By: dirost : October 26th, 2014-09:46
It should be fastidious ;-( I did forget that it is not related to a QP ! Best to U, Nico ! P.S. for small-luxury-world : I forgot to thank U for this post... Sorry, now it's done !

"chronograph complication instead of a moon phase..."

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:53
They did it before, but without subdials. Will post a picture in my report about the new chronographs :-)

"Speedmaster / Seamaster lyre lugs case"

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:55
Those are different (less curvy) and (best to my understanding) much easier to do. So, I don´t see your point here.

Long live the King! (nt)

 
 By: timerider : November 4th, 2014-15:23
.

;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : November 4th, 2014-22:38

Thanks Oliver for your candid review !! For me, the new design...

 
 By: GLau : October 26th, 2014-07:18
...for the hour hand with the star is a nice feature !! According to the lucky collector who has received his 5575, the position of the stars do not represent the Geneva sky. If so, are they placed randomly just for looks ? Given your comment on readabili... 

Thanks Oliver

 
 By: cisco : October 26th, 2014-08:14
A very complete post to have iimpressions of this special watch. Even if there are some ideas of a speedmaster, it is really different, two bows "encasing" the watch, nice shape a bit of a space ship but staying Patek. The idea of a very "cosmic" in watch... 

Great review as always...Love them both!

 
 By: SteelerFan1965 : October 26th, 2014-08:38
Now we shall see if I will get mine. I am first on list so if AD gets I get...Cheers,

Lovely combination

 
 By: patrickh : October 26th, 2014-08:45
I like the new case, which differs from 5110 and 5130 models. The star hand is very well designed and adds a lot of charm to this model. Only one moon moving under a subdial changes from most proposals (with 2 or 3 small moons). I have heard of a 2 moon c... 

great post..

 
 By: Fricks : October 26th, 2014-10:46
... you have caught some shades on the dial that are very interesting. Definitely a nice watch, about the white hands, i think that even it might have enhanced readability, they might have popped out too much, and broke the mellow feel of the dial. I wond... 

Thanks very much for this superb rewiew

 
 By: ch9698 : October 26th, 2014-11:41
Some more pictures ...  

Hmmmmm

 
 By: Mostel : October 26th, 2014-13:40
I liked this watch when I saw it in pics, thinking it was a smash hit. I thought this because its a moon disc Patek has never done etc... But seeing the real pictures has all but erased my lust. (Not your fault Oliver! ) It's SO busy. In some ways it's a ... 

Looking at your pictures reminds me ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:48
that I forgot to mention the crown, which looks very nice to me. Thanks and it seems you are quite happy at the moment :-) Cheers, Oliver

Thank you Oliver….moon disk color vs strap...

 
 By: carnegie : October 26th, 2014-12:48
It is such a great review! That is what I was waiting for! Thank you! I am trying to figure out the color of the moon disk. Is it dark blue or purely black? The reason, I am asking is because I wonder how this watch would look with a shiny, night blue str... 

Funny

 
 By: ch9698 : October 27th, 2014-00:14
because when I receive the watch, they purpose me another strap and it was a blue one but I preferred a mat black I would say a blue one could fit but not a dark, a wash jean color could fit

Charcoal/dark grey strap with different stitching ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:41
I could imagine, but not blue.

"wonder if the clasp closes perfectly"

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:50
I had no chance to try it. Sorry!

Great review and nice photos. Thank you....

 
 By: Clueless_Collector : October 26th, 2014-13:04
I will settle for the ladies if without the diamonds...haha. However, it's a pity the movement was hidden, wish they could have a transparent case back to admire it, and still engrave around the rim. Nice job, Oliver. Raymond

Basel 2015

 
 By: carnegie : October 26th, 2014-14:31
They might adapt this new case design for all WT watches starting from Basel 2015, probably without the moon phase but with a transparent case back. I think it is time to discontinue 5130 after 5 years. That is how long 5110 was out there. The fact that t... 

Sold out?

 
 By: jonrus : October 26th, 2014-14:39
Just wondering if AD's will be receiving any allocation at all?

Great post Oliver!

 
 By: sham1 : October 26th, 2014-16:47
In the past, Patek used to destroy the equipment or cast( I think) used to make the case of its limited editions. Do you know if they will be doing so with the 175th anniversary limited editions?

"Patek used to destroy the equipment or cast"

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:23
All I was told is, the movement of the Ref. 5275P - cal. 32-650 HGS PS - won´t be used afterwards - not even in a similar/simpler version. Mr. Stern took the decision.

Sold out?

 
 By: vipkapoor : October 26th, 2014-22:45
Is the 5575 already sold out? Will all US AD's not get at least 1 piece each?

nice to read!

 
 By: Bruno.M1 : October 27th, 2014-00:54
And I really like the first picture, I wish it had always such a bluish look! looks even better than the black Nice size, not too small Great curves when looking at the case Love the chrono too but in this case I would pick the world timer

Thanks all, for your kind replies!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : October 27th, 2014-06:56
Oliver

Sold out

 
 By: vipkapoor : October 27th, 2014-19:29
Hi Oliver, Thanks for a great review and great pics. Why do you think it is already sold out? Will all Ads get at least 1 if they want?

Hi vipkapoor, let me jump in for Oliver regarding your question of 5575 being sold out...

 
 By: GLau : October 30th, 2014-09:32
Initially I had the same questions and felt that it was unlikely that 1,300 pieces can be sold to end customers so quickly. I then asked my sources, and the reasonable answer is that the 1,300 pieces have been "sold" or allocated to ADs Assuming around 60... 

Thanks Gordon.

 
 By: vipkapoor : November 2nd, 2014-13:01
I thought that there are 450 windows worldwide, so some may even get 3. Its a beautiful piece. Anybody know expected retail? Its CHF46k, so I'm assuming around USD 48k or close to 5130 pricing. What are people's thoughts on collectivity of this vs 5131? T... 

Really 2 totally different watches

 
 By: ch9698 : November 2nd, 2014-13:20
...  

Day light savings on 5575

 
 By: vipkapoor : November 2nd, 2014-13:03
Does anyone know how the 5575 mechanism account for day light saving time?

Hi vipkapoor, the day night saving for 5575, 5130 and 5131 is accounted for via...

 
 By: GLau : January 3rd, 2015-11:59
...the owner remembering in his / her head the difference !! LOL!! That is the truth!! Cheers, Gordon

5575 has to be one of the stars of the show.....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : October 27th, 2014-09:31
.....a beautiful aesthetic

I love this...

 
 By: jporos : October 27th, 2014-11:03
but add a moon and some stars to almost anything and I am sold.

5575 - nocturnal and intriguing

 
 By: Tonypatch : January 10th, 2015-01:07
I suffer from severe bipolar disorder and Ideasthesia, which makes life often difficult for me. I cannot stop looking at the 5575, especially when the blue-ness of the dial strikes through. Still, I could not wear it, as it makes me feel drowsy and it tas... 

Addictive pics [nt]

 
 By: Tonypatch : March 7th, 2015-12:53