Patek Philippe

small-luxury-world
[Patek]
8768

• Show profile
• Show other posts

NAUTILUS - Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A

The new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A combines two highly popular complications and features additional functions for enhanced everyday convenience.

What looks like a simple addition of a new “smaller” complication, was in fact quite challenging and not only for the watchmakers.

The right side accommodates the chronograph pushers and protection of the crown while the left side features the two time zone correctors with which the local time hour hand is bidirectional increment able in one-hour steps. Thus, the full luminescent hour hand indicates local time at the owner's present location, and the skeletonized hour hand keeps track of the time at home. Both time zones have separate day/night indicators. The redesigned black dial with the typical horizontal embossed Nautilus pattern and a bright-dark gradation from the center to the periphery features an analog date (coupled with local time) at 12 o'clock as well as the chronograph's 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock. Beneath it is a movement that makes the connoisseur's heart beat faster:

The self-winding mechanical manufacture caliber CH 28-520 C FUS with a heavy 21K gold rotor, column-wheel chronograph control, a vertical disk clutch, and a Gyromax® balance with a patented Spiromax® balance spring. All these assets are safely packaged for water resistance to 120m in a casually elegant stainless steel Nautilus case with a sapphire-crystal case back.

When talking to Philip Barat (Head of Patek Philippe Development), he mentioned that the most difficult part of the new added complication was the isolator …- for convenience “only”.

The new caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement is (as mentioned above) a chronograph with a traditional column wheel design, an innovative disk clutch and is supplemented with the Travel Time mechanism. This ingenious device dates back to a patent granted to Patek Philippe in 1959. It not only facilitates the bidirectional adjustment of local time in one-hour increments, but is also totally isolated from the going train when time-zone settings are changed. This prevents adverse effects on the amplitude of the balance and the rate accuracy of the watch.

I won´t go more in technical detail, but I can assure you the solution found is absolutely convenient for the owner of the watch. Even when trying to push very fast, back and forward, nothing failed and it felt (relatively) smooth. No matter when and where (beside under water, I guess) you change it; it is safe and works very well. I tried it myself, but of course not without permission

The date display coupled with local time (originally an aperture date at 3 o'clock in the Ref. 5980 Nautilus chronograph model) has been repositioned to 12 o'clock as an analog date, and the monocounter at 6 o'clock was converted into a 60-minute counter. This metamorphosis was implemented with 47 additional parts. Nonetheless, the movement is merely 0.3 mm higher than its predecessor.

The case may look familiar but needed a lot of work, because there haven´t been pushers on the left side. In fact they had to redesign the case. Thanks to its characteristic porthole contour with two lateral hinges, the Nautilus case was ideal for this venture. While the right-hand hinge protects the crown, the one on the opposite side was replaced with the plus and minus correctors. Because they precisely follow the original outline of the case, the unmistakable Nautilus design is preserved. What seems so self-evident as regards the silhouette proved to be a formidable challenge for the case makers: each additional pusher requires a separate bore in the case, yet it still has to be water-resistant.

The new time zone function also has an impact on the dial, which presents the typical Nautilus style in a new arrangement. The dial is black with a slight bright-dark gradation from the middle to the periphery and features the familiar horizontally embossed Nautilus pattern accentuated with ten applied luminous hour markers in 18K white gold.

Positioned slightly below the center axis, the day/night indicators are new elements: one at 9 o'clock for local time as indicated by the luminous hour hand, and the other at 3 o'clock for home time represented by the skeletonized hour hand. The new analog date at 12 o'clock and the new 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o'clock round off the dial.

This symmetrically organized layout sets the stage for the baton-style hour hand with a luminous coating for local time, the skeletonized home-time hour hand of the same size, and the longer baton minute hand, also with a Superluminova coating, for both time zones. The slender chronograph hand is made of rhodiumed steel and with its wide counterweight exhibits the same lancet shape as the small white lacquered hand of the 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o'clock. It stands in visual equilibrium with the delicate baton-style date hand in white lacquered white gold at 12 o'clock.

Some live close-ups:

On the wrist :

… especially on mine ( ) it felt immediately at home and very comfy.

Even the size of Philip Barat´s (prototype) bracelet was just perfect for me and it was quite hard to give it back …

The new Patek Philippe Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A replaces (only!) the Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1A with a steel bracelet, which was first presented in 2006 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection.

Conclusion :

To make it short: I like it a lot - as not to say I desire it.

Site Info.