Patek Philippe

Part II - Quiet & discrete, watchmakers are known for this

 

“Dial makers” are not that different - if not even “worse”. Even long time insiders from the industry don´t know that much about their “secrets” - much less than about movements.

It is probably not a big surprise that the atmosphere at Cadran Flückiger is quite special. There are high-tech machines and highly efficient processes, painstaking handwork by artisans/artists in separated rooms, custom-made “old school” machines for the guillocheur … and it seems some kind of miracles on top. Are there warlocks? No, but there are (quite often) hundreds of different steps/processes before you get the perfect dial and maybe that´s why nobody from outside will ever get the full picture. I only spent about two hours in that place and I am far from being an expert now, but I have seen enough to be impressed – even more now.

Today there are about 100 people working at Cadran Flückiger and they produce approximately 120.000 dials per year. The amount of dials gives a hint that they still produce dials for other companies as well, because PP doesn´t need that much dials. It was like this before and they try to keep it like this. On the other side not all dials needed for watches from Patek Philippe are produced in-house, but they could do so – today. The latter was important for Patek Philippe, but also it was important for them to stay in business with approved suppliers.

In my report I won´t give you the processes step by step, because I would fail to do so after just a few hours visit (as already mentioned above). What I will try to do is to share some impressions and maybe to get your attention to even more details …

 

Side note : I don´t know about you all, but I am an admirer of (even tiniest) details and different shades of beauty. Therefore I would recommend you to observe the face of watches (in general) more carefully. Since a few years some watch companies improved their business case at the expense of “the face”.

It makes a huge difference if you pay about 160,- … 60,- or just 6,- Euros for the hands of each watch, to the supplier and charge your retail customer the full price or even more. Shareholder value, you know. Example, only!

Who needs hundreds of different, tricky and sophisticated steps/processes, if you just can change the design instead? Just keep it simple. Who needs such (minor!?) parts made in Switzerland - only? … Only PuristS?

My guess is quite a lot customers (of today) just pay for the style and the brand – only, more or less. Well, some former serious watch companies became (almost) marketing agencies and they do well at the moment. Former values of general watchmaking don´t count that much anymore, at least not to all. In-house movements is just one part of the story, isn´t it?

Sorry for the digression, but sometimes you need the comparison to understand the real value shown.

 

Impressions from the factory :

At some places there have been boards with information outside the workshops. Those don´t give you all the tiny details, but at least they help to get an overview and some minimum of knowledge about the topic shown.

There are just so many different dials (for Patek Philippe and other customers) and even when most of them start like the same it feels like they all ask for a different treatment. For the first steps they use very modern machines, like common in the industry. Afterwards the dials start their journey through the different departments or better to say different hands of craftsmen. The logistic part itself could be mentioned as a kind of “complication”, because I can imagine it is not that easy to track them all and to make sure the quality and delivery in time. Depending on the dial needed, each logistic path can be different. A complete documentation of each step is indispensable to deliver high quality in time.

 

The galvanic-plating workshop, where surfaces are coated with a layer of metal by electrodepositing:

Another kind of surface finish happens just next door.

The “white powder” has to be chosen carefully and there can be minor differences each time you choose it. The brightest one looks almost like icing sugar, but of course it is not and something more special needed for the finish of a dial.

Everything looks easy and magic at the same time. The results have been stunning without doubt.

So many different machines and tools, so many different steps, so many different people working at the same time … just difficult to track and to understand everything. I had a patient guide and the staff gave me lots of answers besides doing their daily business. I know a lot more than before, at least I know that I have no idea how to do it myself and my respect has grown a lot. Even a simple dial is far from being simple when it comes with a Patek Philippe.

 

More impressions :

Let´s make tiny frames, numbers and indexes … in gold - only, of course.

Varnishing and printing happens just next door and it looks very sophisticated, almost like the production of microchips in an industry dust-free room. In fact I guess they are even pickier at Cadrans Flückiger. Before they start the varnishing or lacquering of the dial, the place has to be cleaned with almost forensic intensity and it takes about 20 minutes – each time.

It looks so simple and clean, looking at the final product. Absolutely no flaws will be accepted and customers like us have good loupes and macro cameras - today

 

Once we have the numbers, indexes or frames, the job is not done …

Each step needs special attention and has to be done with care.

Something not to forget is the guilloche department, because they are in charge for some kind of outstanding dials highly appreciated by the connoisseurs. The skills needed are very special and rare. The technic is quite old and maybe some of the machines needed as well, but even more special are the new wooden “tables”. A master cabinet maker from the valley got the order to produce them. He had the skills and the wood, but he couldn´t believe that today someone is asking for that kind of quality and is willing to pay for the effort needed. Well exceptional work needs exceptional tools and therefore money was not limited to get them. Order was fixed. He was more than happy to be allowed to produce the first one as a pilot and even happier when he got the order for two more.

The result speaks for itself.

It´s not only impressive from the front …

… even when the back doesn´t show guilloche.

There is no big noise when the machines are working …

… no matter if it is a modern or an “old” one. It feels almost like a "Zen" production, somehow.

One could say it is like copy and paste, but believe me it is not that easy – not at all.

That´s it for now and I know there are still lots of secrets, details to show and stories to tell. My goal was not to take away the mysteries of the dial production, but to get more attention on that very important part of any watch – the face.

Lots of effort just for the beauty of a watch, isn´t it?

Well, at the end the tiny details make the big difference – at least for the connoisseur.

I hope you liked my report as much as I enjoyed my trip.

Thanks to Patek Philippe for making it happen and special thanks to my guide. He is a real gentleman and his knowledge is exceptional. It was a real pleasure at any time.

Oliver

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