Here comes the
time when we can discover the new Patek Philippe watches for 2009!
We've heard
many suppositions about a 5970P, or about a new in-house manual wind
chronograph. Apparently we'll have to wait a little more! Added note from Dje: the 5970P is now pictured on the Patek Philippe website with its black dial!
On the contrary
I would not be surprised if Patek Philippe was to present at the show a watch
that is not included in the press information we've received! Let's
hope for some surprises!
We can now have
a look at what is already offered. In fact I don't think any of these
watches were waited by the market, or at least by the collectors.
The first model
and the only new men's reference is the new Calatrava with an
officer's case back, the Patek Philippe 5153J, successor of the 5053
which production was stopped a few years back. It is for now only offered in
yellow gold. I hope to see a white gold version next year! A white gold version
could have been my favourite Calatrava.
The new 5153J
is 38mm large, 2.4mm more than the 5053. The overall height is 10.97mm.
The silvery
opaline dial features a hand-guilloche sunburst pattern in the center,
reminding the dial center of the 5159!
The 5153 is powered
by a calibre 324 SC. I imagine that opening the perfectly adjusted hinged back
to discover a view to the beautifully finished calibre and its 21 carat gold
rotor must be a very pleasing experience.
This first new
model is just one of the new offerings. The rest of the men's new models
consists in a trilogy of pink gold watches, three iconic watches for the first
time offered in pink gold!
Pink gold is
reminiscent of the Art Deco era that is nicely brought back by two of the three
watches.
Three years
after the launch of the 5960P, this efficient and modern automatic chronograph
is now available in a new colour.
The 5960R is
mechanically unchanged from the 5960P. It adds only a nostalgic and more
luxurious touch to the sportier and more casual look of the platinum version.
This watch is
obviously going to be the entry level chronograph choice in the Patek Philippe
range and a piece of choice, as we have no idea of the evolution of the rest of
the chronograph offerings. Let me confess that I'm not totally convinced
yet by the graphic definition of this version, while I'm a great fan of
the 5960P.
I still have no
doubt that this watch is going to encounter a great success.
The 5101P was
launched in 2003, three years after the first ten days Patek Philippe watch
(the much revered 5100 celebrating the year 2000).
The new version
is a pink gold twin sister of the platinum tourbillon. The dial shows two shades
of grey and pink gold applied Breguet numerals.
This
magnificent watch is fitted with the untouched tourbillon calibre
28-20/222, chronometer tested and as already said providing a power reserve of
no less than 10 days (and AFAIK beaten only by the 15 days of power reserve of
the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater, or by other watches that are not
wound through the crown).
I've
personally always found the 5101 to be a fantastic dream watch as it is so
nicely understated with its tourbillon shown only on the back, its Gondolo case
and subtle dial, its Art deco overall style and superb technical performance.
I'm glad to see it's now offered in a second choice of colour and
hope to see in the range for long years to come.
Obviously the
5101R will remain a dream watch for many of us (and unfortunately specially
me). So I may finish the presentation of this trio of pink gold watches with
the most affordable offering, that is for me a very tempting new favourite in
the current "reasonable" range.
The 5098
Gondolo, launched two years ago in platinum, is now offered in the dual colour
of pink gold case and grey dial. The cambered 18 carat gold dial is silvered
and hand guilloched on its center and outer zones and receives a brown guilt
hour scale with brown painted Breguet numerals.
The work done
on the dial is once again magnificent and echoes perfectly the rounded tonneau
case and the curved glass.
The warm harmony
of colours will remind us the warm south American origin of the Patek Philippe
Gondolo family of watches. The relationship between Patek Philippe and its Rio de Janeiro retailer
Gondolo & Labouriau began in 1872. From 1902 Patek Philippe produced a
specific collection of watches for the Brazilian retailer, named Chronometro
Gondolo. The first Chronometro Gondolo wrist watches appeared around 1910 and
this partnership lasted till 1927.
The 5098P was
IMO the most beautiful simple watch in the current collection. I yet have to
handle the pink gold version but I'm very happy to see this reference
appear in a more accessible colour. The 25-21 REC calibre, derived from
the 215, is still there with its attractive and old style bridge lay out.
There's
in fact a fourth offering in this pink gold range of new models. It is an ultra
thin ladies' Calatrava reference 4897R with a calibre 215. I
unfortunately have no pics of this watch so far.
There are also
other ladies options with the 7010 and 7011. These white or rose gold Nautilus
watches offer either a satin-finished or diamond-set bezel as well as charcoal
grey or white dials. The 60
meters water resistant watches are equipped with a Patek
Philippe quartz calibre E23 SC with central second and a date.
The 7010 has
the diamonds bezel and the 7011 incorporates the satin-finished bezel.
I hope
you've found some new watches of desire in these new offerings. I will
see these watches later in April and will come back with lots of pictures.
I'm sure some of us will also see them before me and will bring us their
pics
Dje