When the Patek
Philippe 5959 was launched in 2005 it was a real and full surprise to discover
this absolutely purist watch and its split seconds chronograph calibre that is
still (and may for ever remain?) the thinnest of its kind. The watch is a dream
piece without any doubt but it remains the summit of the modern chronograph
offerings, so simple and so unreachable.
The launch of
the Patek Philippe 5960 in
January 2006 was another surprise! If the 5959 was a "tour de
force", a watch for the sake of the intrinsic classical chronographs
beauty, so small that its case and dial were just a show case for its calibre,
the 5960 on the contrary was a watch intended for the active users of the
modern world. The 5960 was a watch of functions. Its automatic winding, its
annual calendar were perfect ways (or excuses) to make it an everyday watch!
The Nautilus 5980 was offering an even sportier option, a watch that sailors
could use. Maybe the 5980 was a tribute to the sailing exploits of Mr Philippe
Stern? Whatever the reasons be the two automatic references turned to be a real
success!
In this context
the Patek Philippe 5070 was still the classical option for lovers of
traditional chronographs. The 5970 adding a perpetual calendar was perpetuating
a long series of such watches. These two watches have always been very successful
too, but sporting a calibre CH27-70 launched in 1986 in the 3970, a calibre itself
based on a calibre from the forties, they were keeping this romantic style of
the old glories of Patek Philippe's chronographs history, inevitably
conveying also the technical characteristics of older watches.
As it is the
spirit and tradition of Patek Philippe to keep improving and innovating, and as
the rumour had been so loud for years we were not surprised this time to
discover last week the new chronograph calibre CH 29-535 PS. But we would still
have surprises!
This article is
going to be long, trust me! I will try to convince you that "it was worth
the wait", even if you already know that we will (we men) even have to
wait a little more!
This calibre is
the first calibre that will only carry the Patek Philippe Seal. It is also the
first completely new manual wind wrist chronograph calibre in Patek Philippe's
history. The CHR 27-525 PS of the 5959 was indeed inspired by a Victorin Piguet
calibre from the beginning of the former century.
Before going
into the details of the new legend of watch motoring, we have to share the
conditions of its launch. The launch was also the official re-opening of the
Paris Patek Philippe Salon that was closed for four month to renovate and
extend the 10 Place Vendôme boutique.
The precedent
of the renovation of the Geneva Salon was a motivation to bring to Paris such an improved
nest for the Patek Philippe creations. I won't need to comment the
pictures. This is a gorgeous place!
There is little
doubt to me that Patek Philippe is offering each year more complicated and
sophisticated watches and that such offering deserves a suitable place to be
met.
You can
certainly imagine that the lavishly decorated rooms and the sumptuous
atmosphere of the salon will be the perfect environment to choose your next
watch.
I've
always imagined that a Rolls-Royce was the best car to escape from the
roughness of our lovely world, and if I cannot share such experience, I can say
that this place at the 10 was indeed an opportunity to forget the time passing
by.
But let's
come back to the new calibre, and specifically to the new watch that
inaugurates it and also the Patek Philippe's presidency of Mr Thierry
Stern. This watch is simply and smartly (or ironically) named "Ladies First".
I would take it as good news. You may finally see your lovely half understand
why you spend so much time admiring the back of your watch, if that was not the
case so far. You may even end up later asking why you could not buy your new
chronograph as she already got hers! I will cite Thierry Stern to let you
hope: "Of course, this will engender some jealousy among those who have
to wait longer to admire this new chronograph with the stunning manufacture
movement on their wrists."
So the watch is
a cushion, or square cambered two counter chronograph. The case dimension is
35mm in width and 39mm in lengths (from 12 to 6). Not a square could you say,
yes indeed, but looking so close! The height is 10.95 mm. The watch is
water resistant to 30
meters.
It will be so
far available only in rose gold in two dial versions. My favourite is the
silvery opaline dial one. The other version shows a black guilloche flame
pattern.
Each dial is
enlightened by 136 round diamonds for approximately 0.58 carat.
The dial shows
graphical counters at 3 and 9. I'm tempted to say that if in some
classical chronographs the counters are sometimes lost in the centre of the
watch, it is the contrary there and the designers have smartly and nicely
equilibrated the dial design with these asymmetric counters. In fact it seems
obvious that it is a large calibre below, designed for a men's watch.
You will also
notice that the counters are slightly centred below the 3 to 9 line. We have
already seen such position in the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph (or slightly above
in the current Rolex Daytona). This is directly linked to a technical
characteristic of the new calibre, its instantaneous jump minute counter. In
fact it is not possible to put everything in the crown axis!
The case lugs
are mobile, what will help all sizes of feminine wrists to accommodate to the
size of the generous case. Such mobile lugs could also be used again on the
men's version as the trend for large watches sometimes end up in splitting
the world in two, those who can wear the 5070 and those who can't!
As often with
nicely engined chronographs the best view is the secret one, on the back. This
calibre seems to try to escape from the case back as it is so large. Take into
account that it is 29.60 mm
wide while the CH 27-70 of the 5070 is "only" 27.50 mm. It is also
thinner, 5.35 mm
versus 5.57 mm
for the CH 27-70.
Apparently the
back sapphire glass has been placed closer than ever to the calibre so the
calibre seems to literally jump out of the back. You feel that you can touch
it!
As already
written I prefer the silvery dial. I find the thin decoration of the dial, the painted
railway-track minute scale and hour markers being so elegant and simple.
I to some
extent find the diamond scenery look like the crowd around a ring. Some women
will certainly hope for a sportier looking version, but we can't deny
some style and refinement to this watch. If watchmakers keep setting diamonds
on watches after so long there are certainly ladies enjoying them! For those
who enjoy diamonds this watch has on top 0.58 carat of diamonds and on the back
a huge stone of 29.6 mm
of diameter.
So here is the
black dial version. This time the hour markers are applied gold pieces. The
watch may have a stronger look, even perhaps a younger one. I'll let the
ladies here decide.
You can also
play with the colour of the straps. A white strap will easily turn it into a
less formal option. The most daring wearers will certainly try some colourful
exotic skins.
Would you want
to discuss now about the technical content of this new calibre? This is
apparently looking like a classical manual wind column wheel two counter chronograph,
but there is more to say. This calibre is truly innovative in the discreet way
Patek Philippe used us to.
The first
remark that I would want to share about this calibre is that it may appear at
first glance less beautiful than the traditional CH 27 but I can say you that I
soon changed my mind when I discovered all the technical explanations behind
its different bridge architecture. The bridge architecture may be disturbing
because of the absence of the "Y" central bridge of the CH 27. Here
we have two somewhat straight bridges. In fact the instantaneous minute counter
apparently didn't allow for a single "Y" bridge, and even if
that had not been the case, the two bridges are not at the same height.
Of course if
you didn't focus on that aspect at first glance you may already be in
love. If not it's coming soon! Trust me!
This new
calibre cumulates the use of no less than six Patek Philippe patents relative
to chronograph calibres.
Of these six
patents only the first was used before, exclusively in the reference 5959. It
relates to a new design of tooth profile for the contact between the clutch
wheel and the chronograph wheel as you can see below. This profile is announced
to have several advantages.
The first
advantage is to eliminate the risk of hand jump in both directions when
starting the chronograph function.
The second
advantage is to limit the quivering motion of the seconds hand. The hand is
visibly moving more smoothly. It adds to the serenity of this watch ownership
probably!
The third
advantage is to increase the efficiency of the energy transmission by reducing
friction and consequently also wear in the movement, specially between these
two wheels. Consequently Patek Philippe announces that the chronograph can be
used permanently without risk, the chronograph hand can be used as a sweep
second.
You may
remember that it was already the case with the 5960, but for a different
reason: the vertical clutch of the 5960 calibre also avoids tear and permits
this permanent use. Still, contrarily to the 5960 that is a flyback chronograph
that can be reset and restarted instantly when you let it work permanently, the
new CH 29-535 has no flyback function. I will do without it!
The second
patent is also linked to the same point of contact. In fact you've
certainly wondered many times what was the use of the polished cap on the
column wheel. Apparently so far it was purely aesthetical. The vision of the
columns was not judged pleasant by the Patek Philippe calibre
"designers". This time it's getting serious, the polished cap
has become useful.
We've
just seen the importance of the contact between the clutch wheel and the
chronograph wheel. You can imagine that the depth of engagement of the
respective teeth of the two wheels must be precisely regulated. So far that
was a difficult task done by the watchmaker assembling the calibre. He will
still do it, but much more easily and without having to disassemble many parts.
Have a look at
your 5070P's back (OK 5020s, 5070s, 5970s, 3970s or even 5004s or 5959s
of any colour qualify). Put the balance wheel at the bottom like on my picture
below. Identify the "S" clutch lever that bears the clutch wheel
and moves it towards the chronograph wheel when you start your chronograph.
Just below the upper part of the clutch you'll notice that a screw head
touches the inside part of the lever. It is an eccentric screw. By turning it
the watchmaker can regulate to what extent the teeth engage. That's the
old way!
Now here is the
new way, with the polished cap. The polished cap has now become the eccentric.
When the extremity of the "S" clutch lever engages inside the
column wheel (when the chronograph is started), the upper part of this extremity
comes in contact with the side of the polished cap. As the cap is eccentric the
watchmaker just has to unscrew the top screw on the cap, turn the cap until the
wheels perfectly engage, and screw again. And it's done. You can see
below on the drawing the interaction.
My picture
above shows two holes on the polished cap. They were intended to help the
watchmaker turn the cap, but it was finally unnecessary and after a short run
(collectors ) of watches with these holes, the production will receive a plain
cap like below, that is much more beautiful.
The drawing
below shows even better the contact between the lever and the column wheel and
cap. The result is not just a simpler adjustment, it is also a greater
precision in the adjustment and a regulation that is more easily kept in time.
The third patent
is also taking place in the same area. As you may know when you stop your
chronograph the clutch lever activated by the column wheel disengages the
clutch wheel from the chronograph wheel and consequently the chronograph wheel
is no longer powered. But the chronograph wheel must still be stopped and fixed
by a blocking lever to avoid any move of the wheel and an instant stop. This
blocking lever is generally activated also by the column wheel. That's
not the case in the new calibre.
In the CH
29-535 PS the clutch lever and the blocking lever are synchronized directly as
you can see in the picture below. When the clutch lever gets out of the column
wheel it frees the blocking lever that it was formerly pushing out of the way
of the chronograph wheel. The blocking lever can find back its natural position
on contact with the chronograph wheel, immediately stopping and blocking it.
The obvious
advantage is that the action of the clutch wheel disengaging from the
chronograph wheel and the blocking of this last wheel are perfectly
synchronized thus helping to avoid (linked with the tooth profile) the jump of
the chronograph hand when it is started or stopped.
Another
advantage is to simplify and improve the precise adjustment of the control
sequences. There's only one point of adjustment instead of two and this
adjustment is more reliable in time. This aspect of reliability in time is
essential for Patek Philippe, not just because of the Patek Philippe Seal.
We've
mainly discussed so far about starting and stopping the chronograph, what about
resetting it. Reset is quite probably the more violent time for chronograph
calibres and it is the subject of the three other patents. Take a look at the
kind of steel finger you can see below the yellow chronograph wheel. It is
essential for the future of your future CH 29-535.
You've
understood that this calibre has an instantaneous minute counter. This is not
the subject of a patent but the form of this wheel and this slot is the
explanation of this instantaneous jump.
If you look at
the drawing below you can see the chronograph wheel on top, sporting the
seconds hand, and the minute counter wheel below, sporting the minute hand. The
hook linking the two wheels is moving during the elapsing minute as it is in
contact with the elliptic light blue minute counter cam below the chronograph
wheel. This cam is turning counter clock-wise in our drawing. So during the
elapsing minute the hook is pushed slowly out the axis of the chronograph wheel
and climbs as slowly the next tooth of the minute counter wheel (in white
below).
At the end of
the minute the hook falls on the other side of the top of the tooth of the
minute counter wheel and right after also falls back closer to the centre of
the cam below the chronograph wheel. When it falls back it turns instantly the
instantaneous minute counter wheel by one tooth. You can easily imagine it
looking at the drawing below.
Then you can
ask why it is done with a pierced-out minute counter cam? Excellent question!
Simply because when the chronograph is reset, the hook must obviously come back
in place at point 0 just where it falls on the minute counter cam, at the
beginning of the elapsed minute. This is patent 4 coming. You can imagine that
if the counter cam was not pierced to allow an engagement of the hook inside
the cam, the hook would crash-like on a wall when reset and coming back counter
clock-wise! The cam and the hook could certainly be made strong enough to
resist the crash but all the energy would be transmitted to the seconds hand
that could be tempted to "go through the wind screen" if I dare say
so!
The fifth
patent applies to the vertical alignment of the hammers of reset. It is done
through the use of the new bridge you can see above. When you reset your
chronograph, the hands are brought back to 0 by hammers pushing on the hearts.
The hammers are freed and pushed by their springs towards the hearts. They make
the hearts turn until they lay on the straight part of the hearts, closer to
the hearts' axis.
You can see
below how the hammers are vertically aligned in your traditional CH 27-70. The
hammers pivot on a pin and all the regulation is linked to the form of the
pipe. In fact the watchmaker must generally adapt the pipe 's form to
allow a smooth rotation of the hammers. It is a labour intensive and delicate
operation. It is also a source of tear and misalignment in time.
The new
solution is to position the hammers' axis between jewelled bearings. It
allows a simpler alignment and once aligned it doesn't move. You can see
the difference below.
So you may
understand that this new chronograph calibre is apparently traditional but in
fact it is really innovative in my opinion. And isn't it gorgeous?
Some may regret
the larger balance wheel of the CH 27-70. In fact the CH 29-535 is keeping the
Breguet balance spring but its slightly smaller balance is now a 4 arm Gyromax
balance with 4 poising weights for regulation, that beats at 28,800
semi-oscillations per hour. So it is potentially much more precise than the CH
27-70. It also increases the power reserve to 65 hours (58 hours when the
chronograph is activated).
Let's
have a look at the last patent. We just discussed about the hammers. You can
see below the two hammers resting on the hearts. You may notice the screw at
the intersection of the two hammers' arms.
Below in light
blue is a traditional monobloc hammer. This traditional system needs once again
lots of hand adjustment to secure the precise reset of the two hearts with the
same piece of hammer. You can easily end up with hands not properly resetting,
you've certainly seen that already and it is particularly annoying on a
chronograph.
The new
patented system has two linked but independent arms for the hammers. Each arm
and hammer has its own spring. The screw that marks the intersection of the
arms is in fact an axis that allows the hammers to push independently on the
hearts.
Above the
hammers are not applied to the hearts, below they are.
Now are you
ready to find back the six patents applied to the gorgeous calibre below?
Don't you
find it as beautiful as the vintage below? And certainly so much more efficient
and reliable?
I've kept
some specifications for the end as they are not the subject of patents but even
if already used in the past, they are not common. You remember the hook that
transmits the energy for the instantaneous jump of the minute counter? This
hook is kept in place by a spring. This spiral spring shown in grey below is
supposed to apply a constant force to the hook thanks to its form.
If you look
closely at four below you can find the spring below the minute counter bridge
that bears the Patek Philippe Seal.
Why is constant
force better in that case? I suppose it avoids an unnecessary friction on the
minute counter cam towards the end of the minute.
Our last
technical improvement will concern the driving wheel of the chronograph as you
can see below on the drawing. In the new calibre the fourth wheel and top wheel
are integrated in the same mobile, while in the traditional version the two
wheels are separated by a bridge. It is supposed to improve the reliability of
the chronograph functions.
Now if
you've been kind enough to follow me so far in this discovery of the new
Patek Philippe chronograph calibre, I'd like to share my hopes for the
future. You can immediately choose to get a 7071 for yourself or a lady of your
choice, or wait for the men's version(s).
The
inauguration was a unique opportunity in Paris
to see the whole current range of chronographs, but also to discover a very
nice exhibition of vintage pieces.
Obviously a
visit to the Patek
Philippe Museum
will allow you to admire all these incredible pieces.
Let's
begin with the one that is now my favourite! I'm a great fan of this
steel reference 1463, perhaps mainly because of its Breguet numerals. I'd
love to see the new calibre in such a design someday.
Of course there
were many other options and as Patek Philippe was offering a choice of designs
in the forties I'd also like to see a choice of designs in the future.
We remember
very well the very nice 5020 that left us too long ago and a choice of form
chronographs could also be very interesting. This specific watch below is
indeed housing the vintage Victorin Piguet calibre I showed before.
Cases could
vary but dials could vary too!
Black dials are
quite rare on vintage chronographs from Patek Philippe. You may like this one.
We will also
certainly see split-second versions, perpetual calendar versions and why not
both together?
I have no idea
if the new calibre could be made in a monopusher version. That's
something I forgot to ask.
We could
certainly do with two pushers if we get two seconds hands.
I'd like
to finish this post with three pics of the same watch. I find this watch particularly
gorgeous and was very happy to see it again.
You may have
recognized it as his owner was probably even more famous than Patek Philippe
is.
Chronographs
are meant to measure passing time. In fact time is passing too fast not to be
measured. At this time I can't stop myself from remembering my dear uncle
Luc who left our world this year too early. All his life he loved his family
and friends, enjoyed music, motorcycles and wines and dreamt of Patek Philippe
watches, that's why I allow myself to mention him here. As the year is
ending and you men won't get your new Patek Philippe chronograph for
Christmas, I wish you to long enjoy what you cherish! I'm sure you'll
get your share of Patek Philippe chronograph pleasure sooner or later.
Thank you for
taking the time to read, I hope you followed me till the end.
Count on me to
be there for the next case for this calibre!
A great thank
you to the Patek Philippe teams for this great opportunity and my sincere
congratulations to the technical teams for such a marvel.
Dje