Patek Philippe

3 years after the release of the 5170J yellow gold chronograph, Patek Philippe took the opportunity of the 2013 Basel Fair to present its white gold reference. This new version is not just as a mere change of case material. It incorporates an aesthetic change that greatly influences its style when compared to the original version.

When the 5170J was unveiled in 2010, it created some surprises. Indeed, it contrasted sharply from the previous "simple" men's chronograph, the 5070, due to its size (39mm),  its strong "vintage" inspiration reinforced by Roman numerals and the yellow gold case. This big  aesthetic change was obviously an objective. After all, the 5170J was the first men's watch who used the new in-house chronograph movement, the CH 29-535 PS. It was therefore necessary that the transition between the movements based on the  New Lemania ebauche and the  manufacture movement was accompanied by this break which symbolizes the beginning of a new page in the history of Patek Philippe.

The 5170J features a yellow gold case, two Roman numerals and stick-shaped hour markers:



 The 5170G features Breguet numerals applied on each available area:



The 5170J is a very elegant chronograph, perfect in a formal context. The need to propose within the collection a more "casual" and versatile classic chronograph  has maybe emerged subsequently. This is in my opinion the main purpose of the 5170G.

If we forget its more discrete case color, the main changes brought by the white gold reference can be found on the dial. Its color changes from opaline-white, perfect with the yellow gold case to a brighter silvery-white. And more importantly, both Roman numerals and hour markers were replaced by applied Breguet numerals. This change literally transforms the watch.



While 5170J is clearly inspired by Patek Philippe chronographs of the past, the 5170G, despite a similar basis, falls much more in a contemporary approach. If both Roman numerals of the  5170J which define a vertical axis clearly stand out, the distribution of the  seven Breguet numerals of the 5170G along the scale of the chronograph creates a more homogeneous and balanced dial. The applied figures are very refined. Their shape is very elegant and reinforce the perceived quality of the dial.



Finally we are facing two almost opposite watches but that are consistent with their objectives and respective atmospheres. The choice between the two is not easy. I must admit that the discretion, the sober style, the balance and the contemporaneity of the  5170G are very attractive. The warmth and the elegance of the  5170J are also seducing. At the end, I have a slight preference for the latter because the layout of the dial and the pulsometric scale seem to my eyes more faithful to the "vintage" spirit. Maybe Patek Philippe could have used the opportunity of the aesthetic change of the 5170G dial to insert a tachymeter scale instead. This would have reinforced even more the differences between the two chronographs.



The 5170G obviously remains a superb chronograph which takes advantage of the strengths and assets of the original version: the movement diameter that corresponds to the case diameter, the pleasure to use it on a daily basis thanks to a nice winding experience and to the smooth pushers, the instantaneous jumping minutes hand of the chronograph, the 65 hours of power reserve and I will  not forget to mention the beautiful architecture of the CH 29-535 PS. The see-through caseback makes us enjoy the curves and the feeling of depth of the movement. I just regret that Patek Philippe has removed some difficulties and I would have liked to see some inward angles.


It is a real pleasure to wear this chronograph. Its moderate size and reasonable weight make it very comfortable. Its simplicity allows us to appreciate the beauty of the applied figures. I also love the dark color of the two hands dedicated to the chronograph function.

5170G on the wrist:


And the 5170J:


Even if it is a complete novelty, the 5170G has convinced me with its own identity which differs from the yellow gold version one. The use of Breguet figures and the change of case material put this classic chronograph in a more contemporary context and also makes it more versatile.

Pros:

+ the use of Breguet numerals
+ the sober and discreet style
+ the performances of the in-house movement
+ the comfort on the wrist

Cons:

- the shapes of the bridges were cleverly designed, avoiding some decoration difficulties

Thanks to the Patek Philippe team.

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